A New York Cannoli Tour
I moved out of the city almost 10 years ago, and upon my recent return I decided that the best way to reintroduce myself to my city was through a pastry very close to my heart and stomach; the cannoli. I won’t say cannoli accessibility was the reason I moved back, but it also can’t be ruled out. I celebrated my return to New York with a cannoli journey, which took me across bridges and boroughs, and to some of the oldest bakeries in the City – if not the country.
This quest grew out of a deep love for cannolis, and a hankering to find out what makes a truly great one. What is it that makes cannolis so special? The perfect balance of creamy sweetness and crunch have something to do with it; but for me, it’s nostalgia. While the phases of my life have ebbed and flowed, cannolis have always been there for me. As a kid, stopping for one (or more) with my mom while running errands on Court Street, buying the shells and frozen cream from Caputo’s (460 Court St.) for parties, and more recently (an attempt at) making them from scratch; the way to my heart has always been with a cannoli.
The cannoli consists of two essential parts; cream and shell. This simplicity of components allow for a marvel of gastronomic perfection when done well. Neither the cream nor shell should be too sweet, and the quality of ingredients obvious. The shell should have a perfect balance of crunch and crumble, and an added textural element of chocolate or pistachios on the ends can elevate the experience.
To try every cannoli in NYC would be a (worthwhile) lifetime pursuit, but I did my best to gather a representative sample. I started with a neighborhood tour of Carroll Gardens, the historically Italian Brooklyn neighborhood I grew up in, where you can expect to find an Italian bakery around almost every corner, frequented by impeccably dressed cigar smoking Sopranos types, nonnas, tourists, and millennials alike.
My first stop had to be Monteleone's (355 Court St.), the shop just a few blocks from my childhood home. For consistency's sake, and the scientific process, I decided to try plain (vanilla) cannolis at each of my stops. The first bite tasted like childhood. Nothing close to the attempts I had made at home; the cream a perfect density, and the shell just the right amount of crunch. This cannoli clocked in at $2; affordable, albeit smaller than some of the other contenders I’d encounter, but the perfect size for an afternoon cannoli craving. This bakery makes many other gorgeous pastries, including what might be the perfect almond cookie.
I walked a couple of blocks to Court Pastry Shop (298 Court St.), a classic Sicilian Bakery that’s been around since 1948. The unassuming interior of the store, combined with the pre-filled nature of the cannolis (this can create a soggy shell) kept my expectations low – but I was impressed! It was a large size ($3.25, I took half home for later), with a completely intact (non-soggy) shell that had a satisfying crunch with more of a toasted cracker than cookie in texture. The filling also satisfied; elevated by a hint of nutmeg. I can’t wait to come back to this neighborhood gem.
As I continued my Carroll Gardens tour I kept seeing and making brief eye contact with a dark haired, cigar smoking man in a tailored suit and turtleneck. I had first seen him outside of Monteleones holding a pastry box by the string.
When we ran into each other again a few blocks away, he introduced himself as “Hollywood; because there are too many Joe’s in the neighborhood.” I told him I grew up here but am now pushing 30, he told me I was getting old, Babe, and suggested Mazzola for my next cannoli.
At Mazzola Bakery (429 Henry St.), you’ll find a small cannoli option, close to bite size, that is filled fresh. I quickly learned that filling the cannoli upon order is an integral aspect of cannoli culture. It ensures the shell stays crisp. So don’t be discouraged if cannoli’s aren’t out on display when you go visit your local Italian bakery after reading this, most good Italian bakeries have cannolis, all you gotta do is ask. Overall Mazzola provides a good classic cannoli- fresh and delightful.
My research, the “Best Cannoli’s of NYC” article on the internet, brought me to Pasticceria Rocco (243 Bleecker St.) in the West Village. Don’t let the modern facade fool you, this family owned and operated establishment has been functioning since the ‘70s, taking great pride in their cannolis. The bakery has definitely earned its place on these ‘best of’ lists. Rocco’s cannoli was quite large, and filled fresh, with the choice of crushed pistachios or chocolate chips on the ends. The shell was crunchy and light, and overflowing with cream. The cream to shell ratio is another essential cannoli feature; a perfect balance is great if you are on the go and don’t want to make a mess, but I will never complain about an excess of cream.
Next on my list was Veniero's (342 E. 11th. St.) in the East Village, established in 1894, an iconic storefront worth stopping at if only to admire the tiled floor and stained glass ceilings. There is currently no seating, but the bakery offers national delivery in addition to their takeout options. The cannolis are pre-filled, with mini and regular sizes available. What the shell lacked in superior crispness it made up for in flavor; being a bit darker and more well done than the others I’d tried so far, lending it an elevated depth of flavor. A few days later, a generous friend gave me a Veniero's chocolate cannoli (chocolate cream and chocolate covered shell). I was impressed with the balance of sweetness to genuine chocolate flavor, enjoying the added component of the dipped shell, which melts in the mouth.
From the Village I began my journey by bike up the east side, across Randalls Island and through the Bronx. Maybe it was the holiday decor, or the almost 2 hours I had spent biking to make it there, but I felt a certain magic in the air when I rounded the corner onto Arthur Avenue, the little Italy of the Bronx. There was a line inside Madonia Brothers Bakery (2348 Arthur Ave.) on that Tuesday afternoon. The sidewalks were bursting with shoppers, spilling out onto the street. The stores overflowed with panettones and cured meats, and a curbside oyster bar.
This, coupled with the no nonsense women behind the counter, made it clear I was in the right place. Operating since 1918, the interior is no frills, and you will not find cannoli’s on display because here too, they are filled fresh. If there is a perfect cannoli, this might be it. I had been waiting to try a cannoli that wasn’t too sweet, and I found it in the Bronx. This cream was very ricotta forward, and the shell the perfect consistency with a hint of cinnamon. I ate my cannoli on the street, enjoying the sights and sounds of a true and functioning Little Italy.
I needed a coffee with my cannoli by now, and so I went to Egidio Pastry Shop (622 E. 187th St.) just down the street from Madonia. The highlight of this experience was not the cannoli, but the shopkeeper, a woman with a motherly attitude and thick Italian accent who saw my camelback straw and asked if I had wine in there. Not today. We laughed and I got an incredulous reaction and mild scolding when I told her about my ride from Brooklyn. There are definitely more cannolis on Arthur Ave to try, my experience was limited by daylight, but it is more than worth the trek and this will not be my final trip.
Kate Sopko is inspired by food in all forms. After co-founding Long Table Farm in Durango, CO, in 2018, she is now based in her hometown of Brooklyn, NY, and working to meld her culinary and creative passions through food styling and writing.